Sarnath

I should be feeling enlightened or something, having been to two of the holiest places on the planet in the last two days, Varanasi and Sarnath. Admittedly, the beauty of the Ganges and the Ghats with all the color and preoccupation with cleansing and cremation and renewal was inspiring, in spite of the shakedown with the lowlifes.  I think I am a little closer to the Buddhist way of thinking than Hindu, so the short trip to Sarnath, the place where Siddhartha first voiced his message of enlightenment to his followers, the message of the Four Noble Truths and the Eightfold Path to Nirvana, was relaxing and comforting.  Again, unfortunately, modern humanity does not seem to get it.  I saw a father raise his leg and very aggressively bring the sole of his shoe down on the head of his grimy little 5 year old daughter who was whimpering about something.  This was on the sidewalk just in front of the stupa which is said to be the exact place where Buddha delivered that first message.  I grimaced a little, and my eyes met the mother's in some sort of mutual pain and disgust. 

This is the Dhamekh Stupa where the sermon was given.  Some of it dates to 2nd century BC; the lower base is 5th century AD.  I sat on the grass next to an old monk and told myself, "Buddha probably sat here."

I did not realize that Sarnath is really just a suburb of Varanasi.  The taxi did not leave a crowded city street as we made our way to the site.

In Sarnath, there is the main temple, 20th century, and just outside the temple, a monument with sculptures depicting the teaching, prayer wheels, and inscriptions in dozens of languages of the first sermon.

 Inside the temple...

Outside the temple...

 

Near the main stupa are the ruins of several monasteries and temples dating from third century BC to twelfth century AD. 

 



 

The message is simple:  Don't abuse yourself with worldly pursuits, nor in pursuit of righteousness; follow the middle path.