First day's sites...

The driver, a Punjabi man with very good English and knowledgeable about best routes, multi-lane/directional driving took me first to the Lashmi Narayan Temple built in the 1930's and inaugurated by Gandhi.  There is a good Wiki article about it.

 

We then drove to Raj Path, the road at the end of which is the Presidential Palace, flanked by the Prime Minister's building on one side and the Parliament on the other.  These buildings are beautiful, built by the British in the early 20th century.  There is much security, with no access to any of the buildings, soldiers and police barricades blocking every entrance.  Sadly, the air was so bad that the photographs don't do the architecture justice.

 

 

 

At the other end of Raj Path is the India Gate monument.  It is like our Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and Viet Nam wall, dedicated to the Indian soldiers who fought and died in WWI and a later conflict with Afghanistan.  Names of the fallen are inscribed in the stone.  It was built in the 1920's and seemed very popular.  As everywhere, hawkers are asking tourists to buy things....toys, smoking apparata, food, or give money. 

 



 

After this we went to Gandhi's memorial, the house where he was staying and the garden where he was shot.  The place is nice with a history lesson about British rule and the uprising of 1857 the dominant theme on many of the panels surrounding the garden.  Many of his quotes and a biography are on display around the house and garden.

 

 

The Indira Gandhi memorial is very near Gandhiji's, so we stopped by there, as well.  Leaving, I asked my driver, who is Sikh, about her assassination.  It was carried out by Sikh bodyguards after she had attacked the Golden Temple at Amritsar, a holy Sikh temple.  He said her attack on the temple was politically motivated.  I said, "Wow, a very violent country."  He said, "Yes."  Then I felt like an idiot remembering what my passport said.

 

Last stop was the tomb of Safdarjung, built in the 1750's.  Some call it the last flicker in the lamp of Mughal architecture.  Made of red sandstone (from a previously dismantled tomb) and marble, the mausoleum is in the center of a multi-acre garden. I thought it was beautiful, but many have called it out of proportion, and made of poor quality material.  There is more detail here - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomb_of_Safdarjung.

 

 

 



 

That was it for Friday.  I'll see more Mughal architecture today, a famous mosque, and a few other things.  I don't know if we are heading to Agra this afternoon, or tomorrow.  I was too jet lagged when we were discussing logistics.  

 

Jet Lag

The Emirates Airlines serves a good variety of tasty food, at least on these long hauls, and even provided a late night cheese pizza...that was about 10am in California.  The flight attendants were gracious, (the women are the ones seen in advertising wearing the red headpiece with the beige scarf), and I believe have been recruited from all over the world.  In-flight movies, TV, audiobooks, radio, and albums are all available on an ICE touch screen personal computer... I had a middle seat, but was in an exit row, so had plenty of leg room.  The leg from Dubai to Delhi was short enough, and I was tired enough that the middle seat in a non-exit row was tolerable.  I watched a couple of episodes of an Emirates documentary on the expansion of the Dubai airport.

 

 

 

This part of Delhi, Paharganj, is known for its cheap (and I mean cheap) hotels, the bustling market scene, and the never ending stream of humanity (on foot, auto-rickshaw, bicycle rickshaw, motorcycle, and automobile). The streets are very narrow with all of the above moving in both directions on either side of the street, the car horn the most persistent noise rising above the general din of movement. 

 

 



 There are a lot of western looking people, young and older, in this hotel, Vivek, on a street called the Main Bazaar.  I can hear all the horns and motorcycle exhaust passing below my second story window.  I may have made a mistake going for cheap.  The shower is a head next to the toilet and a drain in the floor.  The bed has only a muslin cloth over the mattress and there was a heavier throw of some kind.  I slept in my sleeping back liner with the throw over me, and did ok. 

 

As I had discovered at home, the Indian Railway makes it very difficult to make reservations.  The hotel travel desk tried to get me the ticket I wanted from here to Agra, but all trains were full.  I had already planned to have a driver for the trip from Agra to Jaipur, and this guy convinced me to just have a driver take me to Agra.  We also added an extra destination, Pushkar, a center for Hindu worship and pilgrimage.  The rest of the itinerary remains the same.  He also said I could get more done with my own driver here in Delhi, which I tried and agree.  Given the traffic and the driving style...lanes don't matter, pedestrians don't matter...only the horn matters, I decided to use one of his guys, so that I would only have to get used to one person's driving instead of a series of taxi and rickshaw drivers.  I saw a lot and will post pictures later.



 

 

Map of Delhi..click on original size to be able to read street and site names

I am having problems with Google and its Graphical User Interface.  I just spent 30 minutes describing something about Delhi which is now gone forever....Here I go again...

So, as I was saying, before all thought processes were wiped away by some disconnect between Windows and Google +, this is a map of Delhi, from the front piece of William Dalrymple's award winning volume, City of Djinns.  He spent a year and more in Delhi, researching the Mughal empire, the contemporary culture, the history predating the Mughals, etc., and, I think, his wife drew this map, showing many of the sites of interest he describes in the book.  I will do as much as possible to see the sites on the map and well-described in the book.  Watch this space for photographs.  I will try for lesser visited sites...Shalimar gardens, Fraser's house, Roshanara Gardens, etc, etc. 

Nepal itinerary

Namaste! Allen,

Thank you very much for quick response.

There is way to Khangjim from Thuman that is not in trekking map. Now, I am sending itinerary that is on map North to Dal to Briddim village on this mail.

 I offer teahouse package organize trek. There will be guide and porter (Two Nepali staffs) with you during the trekking days. Porter/carrier will carry your trekking gears while on trek. Guide will pay for all ground transportation, accommodation and meals while on trek. I am sending cost of teahouse package organize trek.  This is as follows:

Langtang Tamang Heritage Trail + Valley Trek:

Duration: 12 days (Two days by bus and 10 days walk).

Trek start/End: At Syafru bensi by bus.

Grade: Moderate difficulty (up and down hill walk).

Best time: September to June.

Highest elevation: Tsergo Ri 5033m.

Trek style: Basic Teahouse.

Ethnic group: Majority of Tamangs community.

Scenery: Ghanesh Himal, Kerung Himal, Langtang Lirung 7234m, Bhimtang Ri, Yubra Himal, Gangchhempo, Naya Kang and Poldar peak etc.  

Langtang Tamang Heritage Trail is an exciting new trekking route located between Langtang and The Ganesh Himal. It is culturally rich region steeped in Tibetan tradition; the local Tamang people are some of the warmest and most welcoming people in Nepal. Within easy access of Kathmandu you ascend the road north towards the Tibetan borderlands and enjoy a relatively gentle circuit trek through picturesque villages, terraced fields and peaceful valleys where only the most discerning trekkers go. En-route, you enjoy panoramic mountain views of the nearby peaks and soak in the natural hot Spring at Tatopani. Continuing north towards Tibet we soak up the heritage and appreciate a local fort, monastery and exquisite local architecture of the Tamang homes. You enjoy at home stay or basic teahouse experience and have a full day to relax and discover more about the traditions of this wonderful region. 

Trek to Langtang Valley to Kyanjin by walk. This trek offers you see colorful Tamang and Buddhist culture, enchanting Langtang Lirung (7234m), Langtang Ri (7205m), and Lang sisa range, many waterfalls, different kinds of flora and fauna. There are Langtang Lirung Base Camp, Kyangjin Ri 4700m high and Tsergo Ri 5033m high day hike from Kyangjin Gomba which best place to see panoramic view of mountains. The way to Tsergo Ri is pretty much up. Up. Up. It lies on heart of mountain Langtang Lirung, Langtang Ri, Polder peak, Naya Gang, Langshisa range. It is nice place to see view of mountain nearby.

Itinerary:

1)      Arrival in Kathmandu. 

2)      Trek briefing and preparation.

3)      Kathamndu to Syabru besi 1467m by bus 8-9hrs.

4)      To Gatlang 2238m/5-6hrs. (Views of Ganesh Himal, Gosaikunda range and Langtang Lirung etc.

5)      To Tatopani 2607m/6-7hrs. (Natural hot spring and views of Ganesh Himal and Langtang ranges).

6)      To Thuman2338m via Nagthali 3165m/7-8hrs. (Nagthali view point offers panoramic views of snow covered Langtang Lirung, Kerung, Ganesh Himal and Sanjen ranges. Thuman is the Tibetan influenced Tamang village).

7)      To Briddim 2239m/5-6hrs (visit monastery).

8)      To Lama Hotel 2470m/5-6hrs.

9)      To Langtang village 3430m/5-6hrs.

10)  To Kyanjin Gomba 3870m/3-4hrs.

11)  Day hike to Tsergo Ri 5033m/8-9hrs. (The way to Tsergo Ri is up hill walk which best place to see the panoramic views including: Langtang Lirung 7234m and glaciers).   

12)  To Lama Hotel 2470m/6-7hrs.

13)  To Syabru besi 1467m/5-6hrs.

14)  To Kathamndu by bus 8-9hrs

15)  International departure.

Teahouse package organize cost USD754 (This price is based on one client).

Cost includes:

1)      Airport pick up and departure.

2)      Two nights accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu at 2** Hotel.

3)      Kathmandu to Sybphru Besi to Kathmandu by public bus.

4)      Langtang National Park trekking entry fees.

5)      Trekkers Information Management System (TIMS) cards.

6)      Teahouse meals for clients: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner with tea or coffee for client during the trekking days (Meals can be selected from menu and will have enough three times).

7)      Accommodation at teahouse/lodge for client during the trekking days.

8)      2 Nepali Staff: an experience guide and one porter. 

9)      Breakfast, Lunch and dinner for guide and porter. 

10)  Daily salary of guide and porter.

11)  Insurance of guide and porter.

Cost does not include:                       

1)      Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.

2)      Personal equipment of clients (you can also buy or rent standard trekking equipment in Kathmandu).

3)      Bar bills: Mineral water/bottle, coke, fanta, sprite, snakes, beer and whiskey etc.

4)      Personal expenses: Laundry, hot showers, donation and Telephone, Email/Internet etc. 

5)      Insurance of clients (I advise to do a comprehensive travel Insurance that can cover medical and emergency Helicopter rescue evacuation (USD8000 to 10000).

6)      Laundry services, Telephone and Email/Internet etc.

7)      Attach bath room while on trek.

8)      Horse or private Jeep/bus renting.

9)      Tips for guide and porter.

If you agree with quotation of teahouse package organize trek, please let me know your arrival date in February. I will be away for Annapurna Circuit Trek with British clients from 9^th of January to 24^th of January. I might be out of touch Email/Internet on this period.

If you have further more questions, please feel free to ask with me. I can quickly supply more information on your request.

I am looking forward to hearing from you soon.

Keep in touch,             

Dry Hills

 

 

I have been hiking, spinning, bicycling, stair-mastering, and climbing the treadmill at a slant to prepare my legs and feet for the Himalaya.  These are some scenes of the dry but beautiful hills and public space here in Contra Costa County. 

T minus 3 days

I need to begin taking the malaria pills.  As the nurse said, "Morning? Malaria" as a way to remember.  I had no such reminder for typhoid and ended up taking the first three of four capsules with a 72 hour interval instead of 48.  The Swiss manufacturer sent some studies which had been done with school children in Africa using various schedules, none of which were conclusive, but did seem to reduce the chances of contracting the disease.  Fear of getting too much keeps me from going back for the vaccine (intramuscular - 2 year protection, oral - 4 year protection), so my typhoid protection may be compromised.  I'll ask my GP what she thinks. 

I have to send my trekking guide a photocopy of my passport so he can get the permits to enter the Langtang national park. He also sent a list of non-prescription items that might come in handy:

Acetaminophen or Tylenol for analgesia

Ibuprofen or Advil for analgesia and as an anti-inflammatory agent

Immodium or Lomotil for diarrhea

A nasal decongestant such as Afrin

Pepcid or Zantac for heartburn 

 

This is beyond the prescription meds he and others suggested:

 

azithromycin for bacterial infections in the GI tract

Diamox for altitude sickness

hydrocodone for pain (I hope my pain does not exceed ibuprofen)

I asked for Ambien to help sleep on the trans oceanic flights

malaria pills mentioned above

 

All this plus my daily regimen of supplements and meds I use when staying home. 

I'm a walking Walgreens.

Maybe an Ayurvedic  practitioner in Old Delhi will have an easier solution.

 

I'll publish my itinerary for both countries later.

  

February on the subcontinent

The Bo tree, or Bodhi tree, the Pipal, the Sacred Fig, in Bodh Gaya, Bihar, India, is where Siddhartha Gautama sat meditating until he realized the Four Noble Truths and began teaching.  He was forever after known as Buddha. 

That was 2,500 years ago.  In a desire to feel something of what Siddhartha felt then, but also to cleanse myself in the Ganges, in Varanasi, and to be overwhelmed by the millions of people in Delhi, the architectural remains of the Mughal empire in Shahjehanabad, Old Delhi, and British colonialism in New Delhi, I am getting on a jet plane on January 29, 2014, and flying for twenty-four hours (3 hour layover in Dubai), and landing at Indira Gandhi International, in the middle of the night on the 31st. 

I will spend two weeks in India, trying to grasp the culture, the language, the food, and the ceaseless energy of the people.  The energy we have all seen in the Bollywood movies, and in the daily activities of any Indian friend or co-worker we may have been fortunate enough to have known.

From Varanasi, after a side trip to Bodh Gaya, I will fly to Kathmandu, Nepal, and meet a guide and a porter who will take me on a 12 day teahouse trek which will include the Tamang Heritage area west of Langtang, and a bite of the Langtang valley and national park itself.  This mode of trekking includes 5-6 hours on foot per day, from village to village, a stay in a home or guesthouse in the village, including dining with the residents.  We will start at about 5,000ft and ascend to about 16,000ft at the highest point, Tsergo Ri.  I should be using meters, but have not conquered the translation. 

What words can I summon to describe everything I'm feeling as I prepare for next Wednesday?  Excitement (who would not be excited); agitation (giddiness, list-checking, overly gadgetized); concern (blisters on my feet (I have done 50 milers with the Boy Scouts in the Sierra Nevada, and I know about blisters)), water treatment and the gastro-intestinal distress that accompanies any sloppiness, personal possessions, to include meds (at my age who doesn't have 5 or 6 prescriptions to keep track of); guilt (I'm doing this all by myself, leaving family and pets to fend for themselves...it is not all that expensive, and I did ask, but I knew the Himalayan trek would not be for everyone); fear (of loneliness (the first time I went to Viet Nam, I had the US Army with me, the second time I had John Allen, a co-worker), other than one or two night business trips, I have never spent this amount of time without constant companionship)); communication (I have not been good about studying Hindi nor Nepali, and I'm glad that many Indians speak English, I hope I can nail a few phrases in the next few days).

This part of this blog is to be a description of the process leading up to T minus 10 seconds, and may not be all that enticing.

Namaste!